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The Mask Business: Promoting Odia Fabrics with Creativity



କୋଭିଡ - ୧୯ ଆମକୁ ଗୋଟିଏ ଉପାୟ ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତେ ଏକାଧିକ ଉପାୟ ଆପଣେଇବା ପାଇଁ ବାଧ୍ୟ କରିଛି l ଆମ ଜୀବନରେ ଏକ ବଡ ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତନ ହେଲା ଏକ ଅତିରିକ୍ତ ପ୍ରସାଧନ ମୁଖମଣ୍ଡଳ ପାଇଁ ଏହା ବର୍ତ୍ତମାନ ସାରାବିଶ୍ୱର ଜୀବନର ଶୈଳୀ ହୋଇଯାଇଛି l ଓଡିଶା ସରକାର , ଅନ୍ୟତମ ପ୍ରଥମ ରାଜ୍ୟ ଭାବରେ ଯେ କେବଳ ମାସ୍କ ବ୍ୟବହାରକୁ ସାଧାରଣ ସ୍ଥାନରେ ବାଧ୍ୟତାମୂଳକ କରିନାହାନ୍ତି , ତା ସହିତ ଖିଲାପକାରି ଅମାନିଆଙ୍କ ଉପରେ ବହୁତ ଦଣ୍ଡ ମଧ୍ୟ ଆଦାୟ କରାଯାଉଛି l ୨୦୦ ଟଙ୍କାରୁ -୫୦୦ ଟଙ୍କା ଯଥାକ୍ରମେ ପ୍ରଥମ ଓ ଦ୍ଵିତୀୟ ଅମାନ୍ୟ ପାଇଁ ,ଏବଂ ୧୦୦ ଟଙ୍କା ପରବର୍ତ୍ତୀ ଉଲ୍ଲଘଂନ ପାଇଁ l


Demand & Necessity


People had begun to clamour for masks in March, soon after the announcement of COVID-19 as a pandemic & a State Disaster. Mass hoarding of masks led to supply shortages pretty soon in the absence of adequate manufacturing. The State Government made wearing masks compulsory while the country was in lockdown. As masks began to be perceived as a necessity in the COVID world, people resorted to creative ways to procure masks - and make it more localised - a symbol of local identity.


Advantages of Home-grown Masks

Though easily available, surgical masks needed to be disposed while masks made of synthetic materials made breathing difficult for a lot of people, especially when worn for a long period of time. Necessity and creativity merged in a way that could not just benefit people but also the State as well as the people who would make these masks. Soon enough, entered new avenues to enable Odisha citizenry to showcase Odisha’s fabrics right on their face - Wearing who they are, where they belong to, while flaunting Odisha’s indigenous handlooms - Ikat, Sambalpuri, Kotpad, Pattachitra, etc .


Employment for Weavers

Manufacturing such masks is an effective way of providing work and employment to several weavers who were left without one as the pandemic raged on. Masks made of such indigenous fabrics are procured from local weavers who currently are in distress because of extending lockdown. Using homemade masks is a means to support their livelihood as well as generate support for fabrics of Odisha instead of exporting materials from other states.

Not just weavers, Self Help Groups (SHGs) too benefitted from manufacturing and producing face masks as these turned into a fashion statement. Villagers and Government cooperatives joined in and began designing masks made of Odia fabrics. And as people began flaunting these masks online, social media made it easier for them to reach a wider audience.


Enticing? Do you want one too? Or more? We tell you where to find them.


Utkalamrita


Utkalamrita - a brand of Sabat Exports - launched their masks made of Ikat fabric back in the first week of March. Producing an alternative to surgical masks with the introduction of reusable and washable masks that can improve the livelihood of weavers was the main goal. Once the demand increased, Utkalamrita distributed masks free of cost to a few senior citizens by mid-March and put the pictures of their masks on their social media platforms before the nationwide lockdown. “Since only mediapersons were allowed to operate during Lockdown 1.0, they used to come to our office and buy it in bulk for their families. OASME (Odisha Assembly of Medium & Small Entrepreneurs) also encouraged us to make masks for employees and staff of member entrepreneurs to promote 'Make in Odisha' masks. We created new stocks then,” says Amrita.


Utkalamrita uses Nuapatana Ikat, Pasapalli, Kotpad and other Odisha handloom fabrics. The masks are now available online, in packs of 5 or 7 masks as well. “We were making masks with cotton strings earlier. But now we make masks with elastic and sell them at the same price.” The brand received a good response from outside of the State as pictures began doing the rounds on social media. “We used to courier it earlier since shipping options were limited. Once shipping began, we decided to put our masks out for sale online.” They are also making two-sided masks with two different ikat fabrics on each side.


Fabrics - All Odisha Handloom fabrics

Price Range - ₹25 (bulk rate) - ₹960 (ranging from single masks to packs of 5 & 7)


ORMAS (Odisha Rural Development and Marketing Society)


୧୫୦ ଟି ସ୍ୱୟଂସହାୟକ ଗୋଷ୍ଠୀମାନଙ୍କୁ କର୍ମ ଦେବା ସହିତ ମୁଖମଣ୍ଡଳ ମାସ୍କର ଅଭାବ ପରିସ୍ଥିତିକୁ ସମ୍ମୁଖୀନ କରି ଓରମାସ ଭ୍ରାମ୍ୟମାଣ ଗାଡ଼ିରେ ମାସ୍କ ବିକ୍ରି କେନ୍ଦ୍ର ପ୍ରତିଷ୍ଠା କରିଲା | ଧୋଇବାଯୋଗ୍ୟ କପଡ଼ାରେ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ ଏହି ମାସ୍କ ଖଣ୍ଡ ପିଛା ଟ ୧୫ ରେ ବିକ୍ରି ହେଲା | ଓରମାସ ମଧ୍ୟ ୪୦ ଦିନ ମଧ୍ୟରେ ୧୮ ଲକ୍ଷ କପଡ଼ା ମାସ୍କ ବିକ୍ରି କରି କୀର୍ତ୍ତି ଅର୍ଜନ କରିପାରିଛି | ସ୍ୱୟଂସହାୟକ ଗୋଷ୍ଠୀମାନଙ୍କୁ ତାଲିମ ପ୍ରଦାନ କରାଗଲା ଓ ସେମାନଙ୍କୁ କଞ୍ଚାମାଲ ସଂଗ୍ରହ କରିବା ପାଇଁ ଓ ସ୍ୱଳ୍ପ ସମୟ ମଧ୍ୟରେ ମାସ୍କ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ କରିବା ପାଇଁ ସମସ୍ତ ସୁବିଧାର ବ୍ୟବସ୍ଥା କରାଯାଇଥିଲା | ଏହି ମାସ୍କଗୁଡିକ ବଜାରରେ ବିକ୍ରି ହେବା ସହିତ ସ୍ଥାନୀୟ ବେସରକାରୀ ଅନୁଷ୍ଠାନ, ସରକାରୀ ପ୍ରତିଷ୍ଠାନ, କଲ୍ୟାଣ କେନ୍ଦ୍ର, କର୍ପୋରେଟ ପ୍ରତିଷ୍ଠାନ ଓ ଅନ୍ୟମାନେ ମଧ୍ୟ ମାସ୍କ କ୍ରୟ କରିଲେ | ଶ୍ରୀ ଯେ.କେ.ବାରିକ ଉପ ମୁଖ୍ୟକାର୍ଯ୍ୟ ନିର୍ବାହୀ ଅଧିକାରୀ (ପ୍ରଦର୍ଶନୀ) ଓରମାସଙ୍କ ମତରେ ଏହି ମାସ୍କଗୁଡିକ ଶତ ପ୍ରତିଶତ ବିଭିନ୍ନ ଜିଲ୍ଲା ଯଥା- କଟକ, ଖୋର୍ଦ୍ଧା, ସମ୍ବଲପୁର, ବାଲେଶ୍ୱର, ପୁରୀ, ଇତ୍ୟାଦିର ସ୍ୱୟଂସହାୟକଗୋଷ୍ଠୀମାନଙ୍କଠାରୁ ସଂଗ୍ରହ କରାଯାଇଛି | ଆମେ ଏକ ପ୍ରମୁଖ ସ୍ୱୟଂସହାୟକଗୋଷ୍ଠୀ ଚୟନ କରିଥିଲୁ, କଞ୍ଚାମାଲ ସଂଗ୍ରହ କରିବା ପାଇଁ ଓ କେବଳ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ ଖର୍ଚ୍ଚରେ ମାସ୍କ ବିକ୍ରୟ କରାଯାଇଛି | ଲାଭାଂଶ ସ୍ୱୟଂସହାୟକଗୋଷ୍ଠୀମାନଙ୍କୁ ବଣ୍ଟନ କରାଯାଉଛି | ଏହି ମାସ୍କଗୁଡିକର ଘରେ ବିଶୋଧନ କରି କିପରି ଏହି ମାସ୍କଗୁଡିକୁ ଠିକ ଭାବରେ ବ୍ୟବହାରଯୋଗ୍ୟ ହୋଇପାରିବ, ସେ ବିଷୟରେ ଆମେ ବିକ୍ରୟ ସମୟରେ ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କୁ ବୁଝାଇଥାଉ | ଏହି ମାସ୍କ ବିକ୍ରୟ କରି ଆମେ ୨ କୋଟି ଟଙ୍କାର ବ୍ୟବସାୟ କରିଅଛୁ |

କପଡା- ସୂତା ଲୁଗା

ମୂଲ୍ୟ-ଟ୧୫-୫୦

କେଉଁଠି ମିଳିବ - http://www.mayurshilpacraft.com/

Bivabari


Designer Jyoshna Das decided to tap into the demand for masks when she experienced trouble in breathing in surgical masks. Also, she had to generate employment with the weavers she was working with at her firm Bivabari. Her handloom masks are made of khadi, block prints, etc. These are all reusable, washable and made of cotton. Initially, the masks were made for her and her family only. She launched large-scale production only after people asked her to make more of these and offered to pay for it. The response was so good that she accelerated production and introduced face masks in all the handlooms she works with. It led the team to distribute 500 masks to traffic personnel, actors, schools, banks, etc. “I used the stock I already had to make such masks. People took it in a few numbers and then ordered more. Since we have to live with masks now, it's important to design masks that are breathable and can be reused. Masks are available cheaply, but a good finishing and proper stitching are important for long-term use,” says Jyoshna. The weavers had to be trained in making face masks but they delivered eventually. Following the popularity of these masks, Jyoshna engaged a few workers in preparing those in her manufacturing unit immediately after lockdown.


Fabrics - Khadi, Block prints, Sambalpuri

Price range - ₹40 - ₹100


Aaima


What began as stitching of masks for families in the wake of limited availability of surgical masks soon turned into a full-fledged operation with several tailors earning their livelihood. Unlike others, Aaima had no such stock of fabrics since the brand was not conceptualized as a garment unit. “When we saw the demand for breathable masks and the lack of it in the market, we turned it into a mask-manufacturing unit,” says Purnima Singh, founder, Aaima. Moreover, Singh runs a voluntary organization called Chesta where they impart skill development training to people, including tailoring & stitching. “We had trained unemployed young women in stitching cloth bags before. As the demand for masks soared, we decided to employ women from lower income groups in making these masks.” The fabrics include Sambalpuri handloom, Kalankari, Pasapalli, soft cotton for long-term use. Designer masks made of breathable fabrics have now become a style statement. So much so that Aaima received orders that asked them to stitch masks from blouses to pair it with sarees and dresses. There were people who wanted embroidery or engravings of their initials on the masks. As a result, Aaima made customizable masks their forte. Despite limited marketing, the initiative has managed to provide work to families suffering the most in the pandemic.


Fabrics - Cotton, Pasapalli, Sambalpuri handloom, Kalankari

Price range - ₹50 - ₹200


Sambalika


ଏହି ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ ମାସ୍କଗୁଡିକ ପ୍ରିଣ୍ଟରେ ସୂଜନଶୀଳ ଓ ଅଭିନବ ସୂଚୀକାର୍ଯ୍ୟରେ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ ଯାହାକି ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ ହସ୍ତତନ୍ତକୁ ପ୍ରତିଫଳନ କରେ | ପ୍ରତିଷ୍ଠାତା ଶ୍ରୀ ସମ୍ବିତି କର କୁହନ୍ତି ଯେ ଯଦିଓ ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ କଳା ଓ ହସ୍ତଶିଳ୍ପ କାରିଗରୀରେ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ ଏହି ଅଞ୍ଚଳ ପାଇଁ ନୂତନ, ଏହି ମାସ୍କ ବହୁତ ଲୋକପ୍ରିୟତା ଅର୍ଜନ କରିପାରିଛି | ସେ କହନ୍ତି "ମହାମାରୀ ପାଇଁ ବହୁତ ପ୍ରାପ୍ୟ ଓ କଞ୍ଚାମାଲ ପଡ଼ିରହିଛି | ଆମକୁ କିଛି ଅଭିନବ ଉପାୟକୁ ଆପଣାଇବାକୁ ହେବ ଯାହାକି ହସ୍ତତନ୍ତ | କପଡାର ବିନିଯୋଗ ଓ ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କ ମନକୁ ସ୍ପର୍ଶ କରିପାରିବ | କେବଳ ସେତିକି ନୁହେଁ, ସେ କୋଭିଡ-୧୯ ର ସଚେତନତା ପୋଷ୍ଟର ଓଡ଼ିଆ ଭାଷାରେ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ କରିଲେ ଯାହା ଫଳରେ ଲୋକମାନେ ମାସ୍କ ବ୍ୟବହାରର ଗୁରୁତ୍ୱ ଉପଲବ୍ଧି କରିପାରିବେ | "ଯେଉଁମାନେ ମୂଲ୍ୟ ଦେଇ ମାସ୍କ କ୍ରୟ କରିପାରିନଥିଲେ, ଆମେ ସେମାନଙ୍କୁ ବିନାମୂଲ୍ୟରେ ମାସ୍କ ବିତରଣ କରିଥିଲୁ" | ପରବର୍ତ୍ତୀ ସମୟରେ ମୁଁ କପଡା ଓ ସିଲେଇ କରିବା ଦ୍ରବ୍ୟ ମୋର କେନ୍ଦ୍ରକୁ ପ୍ରଦାନ କରିଥିଲି ଯେତେବେଳେ ଅଧିକ ଲୋକ ଆମର ମାସ୍କ ନେବା ପାଇଁ ଆଗ୍ରହ ପ୍ରକାଶ କରିଥିଲେ | ପ୍ରାୟ ୩୦୦ ବୁଣାକାରମାନଙ୍କଠାରୁ ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ କପଡା କିଣି ଗ୍ରାହକମାନଙ୍କ ବରାଦ ବା ପସନ୍ଦ ମୁତାବକ ମାସ୍କ ସାମ୍ବାଲିକା ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ କରିଲା | ଶସ୍ତା କପଡା ପୁନଃର୍ବାର ବ୍ୟବହାର କରିହେବ ନାହିଁ | ଆମେ ସେହି କପଡା ଆବଶ୍ୟକ କରୁଥୁଲୁ ଯାହାକି ସୁଲଭ ମୂଲ୍ୟରେ ଉପଲବ୍ଧ, ପସନ୍ଦ ଅନୁସାରେ ପ୍ରସ୍ତୁତ କରିହେବ ଓ ଦେଖିବାକୁ ସୁନ୍ଦର | ସାମ୍ବାଲିକା ଗ୍ରାଫିକ ସୂତ୍ରର ଏକ ପ୍ରୟାସ ଭାବରେ ଆରମ୍ଭ ହୋଇଥିଲା | ଏବଂ ଅନଲାଇନ ମାଧ୍ୟମରେ ସମ୍ବଲପୁରୀ କପଡା, ହସ୍ତତନ୍ତ ଓ ଅନ୍ୟ ଉତ୍ପାଦନର ବିକ୍ରୟ କେନ୍ଦ୍ର | ଏହି ବ୍ରାଣ୍ଡ ମଧ୍ୟ ବିଶ୍ୱ କଳା ସମୂହ ସହିତ ଅନୁବନ୍ଧିତ ହୋଇ ସାରା ଭାରତରେ ବିକ୍ରି ବ୍ୟବସ୍ଥା କରାଯାଇଛି | ଏହା ଆମକୁ ହସ୍ତତନ୍ତକୁ ଲୋକଙ୍କ ନିକଟତ୍ତର କରିବାରେ ସାହାଯ୍ୟ କରିବ ଏବଂ ଆମର ବୁଣାକାରମାନଙ୍କୁ ଏହି କଷ୍ଟସାଧ୍ୟ ସମୟରେ ସାହାଯ୍ୟ କରିବ |


Fabric - Sambalpuri Cotton

Price range - ₹40 - ₹70


Galaang Gaban


Taking advantage of people’s piquing interest in Odisha’s tribal elements, Lipsa Hembram, a celebrated designer from the Santhal community, decided to venture into mask-making business after Adisha advised her to do the same. “I thought it was a good opportunity to showcase tribal masks. I thought I could use only Kotpad but then thought of putting in other designs too. My masks are basically hand-painted depicting Odisha’s tribal art,” she says. Unlike others, her masks are not made of cut-out fabrics from Santhal Sarees. She used the Santhali script to paint on the masks, with the help of her father. “That script looked like art to me. What we have hand-painted in our masks is the Santhali script. Even I didn’t know how to read or write in Santhali.” It not just made her learn the script but also find ways to promote it. She is working on the left-over fabrics and does her own hand painting and that helped her deal with impending depression. “Now that I’m getting a positive response, we are taking orders. I have to spend a lot of time painting it because Santhali script is not available for print. I have a few interns helping me with it since the weavers cannot come in right now.”


Fabric – Kotpad with Handpainted Santhali Script

Price range - ₹120 - ₹150

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