Mahalaya marks the end of Pitru Paksha and the commencement of Devi Paksha. This is the time of offering tarpan or Sradha to their ancestors and forefathers. During the 16-day Pitru Paksha, ancestors from both the paternal and maternal sides are paid respects with the belief that they will bless their progeny. It is believed that the souls of the departed visit Earth during these 16 days. Pitru Paksha is considered inauspicious for any kind of celebration.
Mahalaya Amabasya holds special reverence in Jagannath Temple, Puri; Old Town, Bhubaneswar; and Samaleswari Temple, Sambalpur. These holy sites are the most favourable for offering tarpan or Sradha. In Puri, the offerings are made at Baisi Pahacha (the 22 steps leading to the sanctum sanctorum) while in Old Town, Bhubaneswar, the banks of the holy Bindusagar. Special offerings like cooked rice, banana and black sesame seeds, flowers, chandan and basil leaves as a part of ‘Tarpana’ ritual are made to the departed souls with the help of priests who conduct these rituals. In Samaleswari Temple, devotees queue up for a darshan of the ‘Dhabalamukhi Besha’ (White Costume) that takes place only once a year.
This year, as with most festivals, Durga Puja will not be a wholesome affair. The 16-day Pitru Paksha was also marred with COVID-19 scare. There were a lesser number of devotees performing the rituals. The pandas, who had to be booked in advance every year, were not as busy as they usually are because of the low turnout. The ones who carried out the rituals had to do so with COVID-19 precautions - use of masks, face shields, sanitizers & minimum family members. While no temples are open to the public, the number of people performing the ritual decreased anyway. In addition, closure of temples has led to a limited number of shops selling Puja products. The road on the side of the Bindusagar Lake wore an extremely scanty look in the absence of devotees, a sight never before seen since the entire Old Town would brim with devotees with no space for either vehicles or people. With no plans of reopening religious places or allowing social gatherings amid Khordha turning into a major hotspot, Pitru Paksha turned out to be an extremely low key affair.
Bindusagar Banks wear a deserted look during Pitru Paksha. Life during Covid is one without hawkers & vendors surrounding Lingaraj Temple.
These small platforms were the spot for innumerable rituals that people performed during Pitru Paksha. The once-filled-to-the-brim place now remains without any soul in sight.
Getting a shady place to perform rituals was a rarity. Every year people would jostle for a little space where they could spread banana leaves among other Puja requirements and perform the sradha rituals. Even the Anand Bazar where Abadha from Anant Vasudev Temple was sold wears a deserted look in the absence of devotees
COVID-19 scare is powerful enough to scare everyone away. This is evident from an empty Anand Bazar. Never before were people scared of consuming food from the temple kitchen of Anant Vasudev. They still aren’t but the temple food is no longer up for sale because of the pandemic.
You had to book them in advance before. Now, they look for people to come, help them carry out the rituals of paying respects to their forefathers. Scenes from an empty Bindusagar Lake side.
Covering one’s face to try sticking to the protocols. With the administration making masks compulsory and people still scared of the virus, adjusting to the new normal, however they can, is what the priests of Old Town are doing now.
Their eyes await the arrival of devotees while they assure that they are following all COVID Guidelines. The absence of devotees had never really happened before in temples of Odisha.
Even the priests are scared of the virus!! Seen practicing COVID Guidelines here, the pandas have also been severely affected by the pandemic. Religious places of worship are yet to open. Rising cases are a worrisome affair for them as well.
This is what a typical sradha scene looks like. The banks of Bindusagar Lake are considered one of the holiest if one has to appease their ancestors. A confluence of all the holy rivers of the world, Bindusagar Lake holds a special reverence during Pitru Paksha.
Preparation of pindas that are made then and there under the supervision of the pandas. Pindas are balls of cooked rice and/or barley flour mixed with ghee and black sesame seeds offered to ancestors.
Pinda daan is made to ancestors from both the paternal and maternal sides. The tarpan is made on banana leaves and fruit offerings are made along with chandan, cooked rice, etc.
Pandas form an integral part of the ritual-performing services. Scores of people make plans beforehand and come with their Puja samagri to pay respects to ancestors during those 16 days of Pitru Paksha, culminating in Mahalaya Amabasya.
This year, devotees had no option but to perform Sradha by following COVID Guidelines. Masks, face shields, etc were used by people as case count in Khordha district reaches new heights everyday.
As Durga Puja approaches, the pandas are having a hard time adjusting to the new normal with prolonged closure of religious places and curbs on celebration of major festivals.
Life around Lingaraj Temple was one of chaos, crowds, daily bhog, saints and hermits with their damroos calling for the Lord of the Universe. The last 6 months have changed everything. Except maybe, a post apocalypse world for a few.
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